Skin and hair aerosol foam preparations containing an alkyl polyglycoside and vegetable oil

ABSTRACT

A water-based composition for the treatment of hair or skin containing an active-substance combination of cosmetic components consisting of 
     (a) an alkyl polyglycoside corresponding to general formula (I): 
     
         RO--(Z).sub.x                                              (I) 
    
      in which R is an alkyl radical containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms, Z is a mono- or oligosaccharide and x is a number of 1.1 to 5, or adducts thereof with 1 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide, 
     (b) a polymer, and 
     (c) a vegetable oil selected from kukui nut oil, almond oil, walnut oil, peach kernel oil, avocado oil, tea tree oil, soya oil, sesame oil, sunflower seed oil, tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango kernel oil, meadow foam oil, thistle oil, macadamia nut oil, grape seed oil, apricot kernel oil, babassu oil, olive oil, wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, hazel nut oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil and shea butter.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

1. Field of the Invention

This invention relates to preparations for the treatment of the skin andhair containing a special combination of active substances.

The washing and care of hair is an important part of personal hygiene.

Both the washing of hair with shampoos and the decorative treatment ofhair, for example by coloring or permanent waving, are actions whichinfluence the natural structure and properties of the hair. Thus,following a such treatment, the wet and dry combability, hold and bodyof the hair, for example, can be unsatisfactory or the number ofso-called split ends can be increased. In addition, uniform distributionof the dyes applied with hair colorants is often problematical.

Accordingly, it has long been standard practice to subject the hair to aspecial aftertreatment. To this end, the hair is treated with specialactive substances, for example quaternary ammonium salts or specialpolymers, in the form of a rinse. Depending on the formulation used,this treatment improves, for example, the combability, hold and body ofthe hair, reduces the number of split ends or improves colordistribution.

In addition, so-called combination preparations have recently beendeveloped with a view to reducing the effort involved in standardmultistage processes, particularly where they are directly applied bythe consumer.

In addition to the usual components, for example for cleaning the hair,these preparations additionally contain active substances whichpreviously were reserved for hair aftertreatment preparations.Accordingly, the consumer saves one application step. At the same time,packaging costs are reduced because one product less is used.

The active substances available both for separate aftertreatmentformulations and for combination preparations still cannot meet allconsumer requirements. In particular, there is a continuing need foractive substances and combinations thereof which combine greatereffectiveness with ready biodegradability. In addition, color retentionis still problematical when the colored hair is washed repeatedly withstandard shampoos.

Finally, many hair treatment formulations inevitably come into contactwith the scalp. This can result in irritation, particularly in sensitivepeople. Accordingly, there is still a need to formulate the hairtreatment preparations in such a way that there is no risk of scalpirritation. Ideally, the hair treatment preparations should even have a"caring" effect on the scalp.

It has now surprisingly been found that preparations containing acombination of three classes of active substance already known for thetreatment of hair effectively satisfy the requirements stated above. Inparticular, very good dry and wet combability is achieved. In the caseof colored hair, a good levelling effect with surprisingly high colorretention is in addition achieved. Moreover, a caring effect on thescalp was observed. Finally, preparations in which almost all thecomponents are readily biodegradable can be formulated with thiscombination of active substances.

DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

Accordingly, the present invention relates to a water-containing skin orhair treatment preparation containing standard cosmetic components,characterized in that it contains a combination of active substancesconsisting of

an alkyl polyglycoside corresponding to general formula (I):

    RO--(Z).sub.x                                              (I)

in which R is an alkyl radical containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms,

Z is a mono- or oligosaccharide and

x is a number of 1.1 to 5,

or adducts thereof with 1 to 10 molecules of ethylene oxide and/orpropylene oxide,

a polymer and

a vegetable oil.

All three classes of active substance are well-known ingredients of hairtreatment preparations.

Combinations of alkyl glycosides and polymers and also known, forexample from DE-OS 32 16 687, from EP-A1 337 354 and from German patentapplications P 42 32 512.9, P 42 32 506.4, P 42 34 413.1 and P 42 34405.0.

However, there is nothing in this prior art to suggest that advantageouseffects could be obtained by using the three-component combinationaccording to the invention in hair and skin treatment preparations.

The first component of the active-substance combination according to theinvention are alkyl polyglycosides corresponding to formula (I).

The compounds corresponding to formula (I) are characterized by thefollowing parameters.

The alkyl radical R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and may be both linearand branched. Primary, linear and 2-methyl-branched aliphatic radicalsare preferred. Corresponding alkyl radicals are, for example 1-octyl,1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. 1-Octyl, 1-decyl,1-lauryl, 1-myristyl are particularly preferred. Where so-called"oxoalcohols" are used as starting materials, compounds containing anuneven number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.

The alkyl glycosides suitable for use in accordance with the inventionmay contain only one specific alkyl radical R. However, these compoundsare normally prepared from natural fats and oils or mineral oils. Inthis case, mixtures corresponding to the starting compounds or to theparticular working up of these compounds are present as the alkylradicals R.

Particularly preferred alkyl polyglycosides are those in which Rconsists

essentially of C₈ and C₁₀ alkyl groups,

essentially of C₁₂ and C₁₄ alkyl groups,

essentially of C₈ to C₁₆ alkyl groups or

essentially of C₁₂ to C₁₆ alkyl groups.

Any mono- or oligosaccharides may be used as the sugar unit Z. Sugarscontaining 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharidesare normally used. Corresponding sugars are, for example, glucose,fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose,mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose. Preferred sugar units areglucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose, glucose beingparticularly preferred.

The alkyl polyglycosides suitable for use in accordance with inventioncontain on average 1.1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl glycosides in which x hasa value of 1.1 to 1.6 are preferred, alkyl glycosides in which x has avalue of 1.1 to 1.4 being most particularly preferred.

The alkoxylated homologs of the alkyl polyglycosides mentioned may alsobe used in accordance with the invention. These homologs may contain onaverage up to 10 ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide units per alkylglycoside unit. These products also are not normally individualcompounds, but instead have a corresponding homolog distributionaccording to the ethoxylation process selected. Correspondingalkoxylated compounds may be obtained, for example, by using ethoxylatedfatty alcohols for the synthesis of the alkyl polyglycosides.

The alkyl polyglycosides are present in the preparations according tothe invention in quantities of preferably 0.5 to 20% by weight, based onthe preparation as a whole. However, quantities of 10% by weight or moreare normally only used in special shampoo formulations. In otherformulations, quantities of alkyl polyglycosides of 0.5 to 5% by weightare particularly preferred.

The second component of the active-substance combination according tothe invention is a polymer. It may be both a cationic, amphoteric,zwitterionic or anionic polymer and a nonionic polymer. It may also beof advantage to use representatives of various polymer types inconjunction with one another.

The cationic polymers suitable use in accordance with the inventioncontain cationic groups within the polymer chain. These groups may bepart of the polymer chain although they may also be positioned insidechains which are connected to a main chain by intermediate links.Typical cationic groups contain quaternary nitrogen or phosphorus atoms.Groups containing quaternary nitrogen atoms are preferred. Thequaternary nitrogen atoms may bear both four different or partlyidentical substituents or may be part of a ring system. Preferredcationic groups are ammonium or imidazolinium groups.

If the ionic groups are situated in the side chains, the polymers aresynthesized from compounds which contain at least one polymerizablegroup in addition to at least one cationic group and which are free fromanionic groups.

The polymerizable group is preferably a vinyl group. However, cationicpolymers in which the main polymer chain is made up, for example, ofglycosides or is protein-like in character may also be used.

Cationic copolymers containing at least one nonionic monomer in additionto the cationic monomers are also preferred for the purposes of theinvention. Suitable nonionic monomers are, for example, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl acetate, acrylamide, methacrylamide, methyl acrylate,ethyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate and ethyl methacrylate. Vinylpyrrolidone is a particularly preferred nonionic monomer.

Various cationic polymers suitable for hair care are known to the expertand are commercially available.

The following are examples of such polymers:

Quaternized cellulose derivatives commercially obtainable under thenames of CELQUAT® and Polymer JR®. The compounds CELQUAT® 100, CELQUAT®L200 and POLYMER JR® 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives.

Quaternized guar derivatives which are commercially available under thenames of COSMEDIA GUAR® and JAGUAR®. Preferred guar derivatives are, forexample, COSMEDIA GUAR® C-261 and JAGUAR® C 13-S.

Copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoacrylate and methacrylate, for example vinyl pyrrolidoneldimethylaminomethacrylate copolymers quaternized with diethyl sulfate and vinylpyrrolidone/methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride copolymers.Such compounds are commercially available under the names of GAFQUAT®734, GAFQUAT® 755 and GAFQUAT® HS100.

Copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone with vinyl imidazolinium methochloridecommercially available under the name of LUVIQUAT®.

Polymeric dimethyl diallylammonium salts and copolymers thereof withesters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. The productscommercially available under the names of MERQUAT® 100 (poly-(dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and MERQUAT® 550 (dimethyl diallylammoniumchloride/acrylamide copolymer) are examples of such cationic polymers.

Cationically derivatized silicone oils, for example the commerciallyavailable products Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning; a stabilizedtrimethyl silyl amodimethicone), Dow Corning 929 Emulsion (containing ahydroxylamino-modified silicone which is also known as--Amodimethicone),SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer:Wacker) and ABI®-QUAT 3270 and 7232 (manufacturer: Th. Goldschmidt;diquaternary polydimethyl siloxanes, Quaternium-80).

Cationically derivatized protein hydrolyzates obtainable, for example,by reaction of alkali-, acid- or enzyme-hydrolyzed proteins withglycidyl trialkylammonium salts or 3-halo-2-hydroxypropyltrialkylammonium salts are also cationic polymers in the context of thepresent invention.

The proteins, which serve as starting materials for the proteinhydrolyzates, may be both of animal origin and of vegetable origin.Typical starting materials are, for example, keratin, collagen, elastin,soya protein, milk protein, wheat protein, silk protein and almondprotein. Mixtures with molecular weights of around 100 to around 50,000dalton are formed by the hydrolysis process. Typical average molecularweights are in the range from about 500 to about 5,000 dalton. Furtherparticulars of cationic derivatization can be found inter alia inJapanese patent application 77/73485 (Chemical Abstracts 90:174508v).

The cationically derivatized protein hydrolyzates advantageously containone or two long alkyl chains containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms and,correspondingly, two or one short alkyl chain containing 1 to 4 carbonatoms. Compounds containing one long alkyl chain are preferred.

Preferred protein derivatives are substances corresponding to formula(II): ##STR1## in which R⁴ represents the side chains of the amino acidsof the protein, R¹ and R² independently of one another represent alkylchains containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms and R³ represents an alkyl chaincontaining 8 to 22 carbon atoms.

A commercially available product is LAMEQUAT®L (Chemische FabrikGrunau). It has the following structure: ##STR2## in which R representsthe side chains of the amino acids of collagen.

The CTFA name is Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropylamino Hydrolyzed Collagen.

Polymeric condensation resins of polyols and polyamines, for example thepolyglycol/polyamine condensation resins known by the CTFA name ofPEG-15 Cocopolyamine. The product POLYQUAT®)H 81 (Henkel) iscommercially obtainable.

In the context of the invention "amphoteric polymers" are understood tobe polymers which contain both free amino groups and free --COOH or--SO₃ H groups in the molecule and which are capable of forming innersalts. "Zwitterionic polymers" are polymers which contain quaternaryammonium groups and --COO⁻ or --SO₃ ⁻ groups in the molecule.

Examples of amphoteric polymers suitable for use in accordance with theinvention are the acrylic resins obtainable under the names ofAMPHOMER®) and AMPHOMER® LV-71, the copolymers of tert.butyl aminoethylmethacrylate, N-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)-acrylamide and two or moremonomers from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid orsimple esters thereof.

Other amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers which may be used inaccordance with the invention are the compounds mentioned in GB2,104,091, in EP 47 714, in EP 217 274, in EP 238 817 and in DE 28 17369.

Particular preference is attributed to zwitterionic polymers essentiallyconsisting of

(α) monomers containing quaternary ammonium groups corresponding togeneral formula (III):

    R.sup.5 --CH═CR.sup.6 --CO--X--(C.sub.n H.sub.2n)--N.sup.(+) R.sup.7 R.sup.8 R.sup.9 A.sup.(-)                                 (III)

in which R⁵ and R⁶ independently of one another represent hydrogen or amethyl group and R⁷, R⁸ and R⁹ independently of one another representalkyl groups containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, X is an NH group or anoxygen atom, n is an integer of 2 to 5 and A.sup.(-) is the anion of anorganic or inorganic acid and

(β) monomeric carboxylic acids corresponding to general formula (IV):

    R.sup.10 --CH═CR.sup.11 --COOH                         (IV)

In which R¹⁰ and R¹¹ independently of one another represent hydrogen ormethyl groups,

or the alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, aluminium or ammonium saltsof these acids.

Particulars of the production of these polymers can be found in DE-A 3929 973.

Polymers based on monomers of the (α) type, in which R⁷, R⁸ and R⁹ aremethyl groups, X is an NH group and A.sup.(-) is a halide,methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ion, are most particularly preferred.Acrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride and methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride are particularly preferred monomers (α).Acrylic acid or an alkali metal salt of acrylic acid, more particularlythe sodium salt, is preferably used as monomer (β) for the polymersmentioned.

Zwitterionic polymers in which the number of monomers of the (α) type isgreater the number of monomers of the (β) type are also preferred.Ratios of monomers of the (α) type to monomers of the (β) type ofgreater than 1.5 are particularly preferred.

Other preferred zwitterionic polymers are polysiloxane/polyorganobetainecopolymers and also the zwitterionic cellulose ethers according to DE-OS38 33 658.

Anionic polymers suitable for the purposes of the invention are interalia:

Vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymers commercially available, forexample, under the names of RESYN® (National Starch), LUVISET® (BASF)and GAFSET® (GAF). LUVISET® CA-66 is a particularly preferred anionicpolymer.

Vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl acrylate copolymers obtainable, for example,under the name of LUVIFLEX® (BASF). A preferred polymer is the vinylpyrrolidone/acrylate terpolymer obtainable under the name of LUVIFLEX®VBM-35 (BASF).

Vinyl acetate/butyl maleate/isobornyl acrylate copolymers obtainableunder the name of ADVANTAGE® (GAF). ADVANTAGE® CP is a preferredpolymer.

Methyl vinyl ether/maleic anhydride copolymers and esters thereof whichare obtainable, for example, under the name of GANTREZ® (GAF). GANTREZ®ES 225 is a preferred anionic polymer.

Acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/N-tert.butyl acrylamide terpolymersmarketed, for example, under the name of ULTRAHOLD® 8 (BASF).

Uncrosslinked, partly crosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids,polyacrylic acid esters, acrylic acid/methacrylic acid copolymers andacrylic acid/acrylamide copolymers obtainable, for example, under thenames of CARBOPOL®, LATEROLL®, PEMULEN® and ACRYSOL®.

The following are examples of suitable nonionic polymers:

Polyvinyl pyrrolidones, for example the products commercially availableunder the names of LUVISKOL® K 30 and LUVISKOL® K 90 (BASF).

Vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers marketed, for example, underthe name of LUVISKOL® (BASF). LUVISKOL® VA 64, LUVISKOL® VA 73 andLUVISKOL® VA 37 are preferred nonionic polymers; LUVISKOL® VA 37 isparticularly preferred.

Vinyl pyrrolidoneldimethyl aminoethyl methacrylate/vinyl caprolactamterpolymers obtainable, for example, under the name of Copolymer VC-713(GAF).

Cellulose ethers, for example hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, methyl hydroxypropyl cellulose and hydroxymethyl cellulose.

Among the polymers the cationic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionicare preferred. The cationic polymers and, in particular, the nonionicpolymers have proved to be most particularly suitable for the purposesof the invention.

The preparations according to the invention preferably contain 0.05 to5% by weight and, more particularly, 0.05 to 2% by weight of polymers,based on the preparation as a whole.

Finally, the third component of the active-substance combinationaccording to the invention is a vegetable oil. Examples of vegetableoils suitable for use in accordance with the invention are kukui nutoil, (sweet) almond oil, walnut oil, peach kernel oil, avocado oil, teatree oil, soya oil, sesame oil, sunflower seed oil, tsubaki oil, eveningprimrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango kernel oil, meadowfoam oil, thistle oil, macadamia nut oil, grape seed oil, apricot kerneloil, babassu oil, olive oil, wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallowoil, hazel nut oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, canola oil, sasanqua oiland shea butter. Of these oils, soya oil, sesame oil, sunflower seedoil, meadow foam oil, thistle oil, apricot kernel oil, babassu oil,wheat germ oil, jojoba oil and, in particular, kukui nut oil, (sweet)almond oil, peach kernel oil, avocado oil, evening primrose oil,macadamia nut oil and mallow oil are preferred. Macadamia nut oil and,in particular, kukui nut oil have proved to be particularly suitable.

The preparations according to the invention may also contain any of thecosmetic components typical of the particular type of preparation. Ofthese, the various types of surfactants are mentioned in particular:

Suitable anionic surfactants for the preparations according to theinvention are any anionic surfactants suitable for use on the humanbody. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing anionic group, forexample a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group, and alipophilic alkyl group containing around 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Inaddition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amidegroups and also hydroxyl groups may be additionally present in themolecule. The following are examples of suitable anionic surfactants--inthe form of their sodium, potassium, magnesium and ammonium salts andtheir mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts containing two or threecarbon atoms in the alkanol group:

linear fatty acids containing 10 to 22 carbon atoms (soaps),

ether carboxylic acids corresponding to the formula R--O--(CH₂ --CH₂O)_(x) --CH₂ --COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group containing 10 to22 carbon atoms and x=0 or 1 to 16,

acyl sarcosides containing 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

acyl taurides containing 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

acyl isethionates containing 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters containing 8 to 18 carbonatoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyhydroxyethyl esters containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkylgroup and 1 to 6 hydroxyethyl groups,

linear alkanesulfonates containing 12 to 18 carbon atoms,

linear α-olefin sulfonates containing 12 to 18 carbon atoms,

α-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids containing 12 to 18carbon atoms,

alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates corresponding to theformula R--O(CH₂ --CH₂ O)_(x) --OSO₃ H, in which R is a preferablylinear alkyl group containing 10 to 18 carbon atoms and x=0 or 1 to 12,

mixtures of surface-active hydroxysulfonates according to DE-A-37 25030,

sulfated hydroxyalkyl polyethylene and/or hydroxyalkylene propyleneglycol ethers according to DE-A-37 23 354,

sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids containing 12 to 24 carbon atomsand 1 to 6 double bonds according to DE-A-39 26 344,

esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols in the form ofadducts of around 2 to 15 molecules of ethylene oxide and/or propyleneoxide with fatty alcohols containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms.

Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ethersulfates and ether carboxylic acids containing 10 to 18 carbon atoms inthe alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule andalso sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters containing 8 to 18carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl groupand 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups.

Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds containing atleast one quaternary ammonium group and at least one --COO.sup.(-) or--SO₃.sup.(-) group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionicsurfactants are the so-called betaines, such asN-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammoniumglycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl dimethylammonium glycinate,and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl imidazo-lines containing 8 to18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethyl carboxymethyl glycinate. A preferred zwitterionicsurfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the CTFA name ofCocoamidopropyl Betaine.

Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which contain atleast one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO₃ H group inaddition to a C₈₋₁₈ alkyl or acyl group in the molecule and which arecapable of forming inner salts. Examples of suitable ampholyticsurfactants are N-alkyl glycines, N-alkyl propionic acids,N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids,N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropyl glycines, N-alkyl taurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acidscontaining around 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularlypreferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate,cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C₁₂₋₁₈ acyl sarcosine.

Examples of cationic surfactants suitable for use in the preparationsaccording to the invention are, in particular, quaternary ammoniumcompounds. Preferred cationic surfactants are ammonium halides,especially chlorides and bromides, such as alkyl trimethylammoniumchlorides, dialkyl dimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, for example cetyl trimethylammonium chloride,stearyl trimethylammonium chloride, distearyl dimethylammonium chloride,lauryl dimethylammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl benzylammoniumchloride and tricetyl methylammonium chloride. Other suitable cationicsurfactants are so-called esterquats (for example STEPANTEX® VS 90,DEHYQUART®) AU 36 and AU 56) and amidoamines (for example TEGOAMID® S18).

Nonionic surfactants contain, for example, a polyol group, apolyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of a polyol andpolyglycol ether group as the hydrophilic group. Such compounds are, forexample,

adducts of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and/or 0 to 5 moles ofpropylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols containing 8 to 22 carbonatoms, with fatty acids containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms and withalkylphenols containing 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,

C₁₂₋₂₂ fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of 1 to 30 moles ofethylene oxide with glycerol,

adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil andhydrogenated castor oil.

The compounds containing alkyl groups used as surfactants may beindividual substances. In general, however, it is preferred to usenative vegetable or animal raw materials in the production of thesesubstances so that mixtures with different alkyl chain lengths,depending on the particular raw material, are obtained.

In the case of the surfactants representing adducts of ethylene and/orpropylene oxide with fatty alcohols or derivatives of these adducts, itis possible to use both products with a "normal" homolog distributionand those with a narrow homolog distribution. By "normal" homologdistribution are meant mixtures of homologs which are obtained in thereaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkalimetal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts. By contrast,narrow homolog distributions are obtained when, for example,hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids,alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates are used ascatalysts. It can be of advantage to use products with a narrow homologdistribution ("narrow-range" products).

The preparations according to the invention preferably containsurfactants in quantities of 0.5 to 20% by weight, based on theparticular preparation.

Besides water, the preparations according to the invention may containethanol and isopropanol in particular as further solvents in quantitiesof up to 20% by weight, based on the preparation as a whole. Quantitiesof 5 to 10% by weight are particularly preferred.

The preparations according to the invention preferably have a pH valueof 2.5 to 7.5 and, more particularly, in the range from 3.5 to 6.5. Incertain cases, a pH value of 4.0 to 5.0 can be particularly preferred.Higher pH values, but generally not above 10, may be preferred solelyfor special products, such as colorants and permanent-wave preparations.

Virtually any acid suitable for cosmetic purposes may be used to adjustthis pH value. Edible acids are normally used, especially in cases wherethe preparation is not a permanent wave preparation. Edible acids areunderstood to be acids which are ingested in the normal course of eatingand which have positive effects on the human organism. Examples ofedible acids are acetic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid,malic acid, ascorbic acid and gluconic acid. Citric acid and lactic acidare particularly preferred for the purposes of the invention.

Finally, other typical ingredients of the preparations according to theinvention include:

thickeners, such as agar agar, guar gum, alginates and xanthan gum,

structurants, such as glucose and maleic acid,

protein hydrolyzates, more particularly elastin, collagen, keratin, milkprotein, soya protein and wheat protein hydrolyzates and condensatesthereof with fatty acids,

perfume oils, dimethyl isosorbide and cyclodextrins,

solubilizers, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol anddiethylene glycol,

dyes,

anti-dandruff agents, such as Piroctone Olamine and Zinc Omadine,

other pH regulators,

active substances, such as panthenol, allantoin, pyrrolidone carboxylicacids, vegetable extracts and vitamins,

light stabilizers,

consistency regulators, such as sugar esters, polyol esters and polyolalkyl ethers,

fats and waxes, such a spermaceti, beeswax, montan wax, paraffins andfatty alcohols,

fatty acid alkanolamides,

complexing agents, such as EDTA, NTA and phosphonic acids,

swelling and penetration agents, such as glycerol, propylene glycolmonoethyl ether, carbonates, hydrogen carbonates, guanidines, ureas andprimary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,

opacifiers, such as latex,

pearlescers, such as ethylene glycol monostearate and distearate, and

antioxidants.

The active-substance combinations according to the invention developtheir positive effects in all typical skin and hair treatmentpreparations. However, they are used with particular advantage inhair-cleaning and hair-care preparations. Corresponding preparationsare, in particular, shampoos, hair rinses, hair aftertreatmentpreparations, hair conditioners and hair setting preparations.

The preparations suitable for use in accordance with the invention maybe formulated as solutions, lotions, emulsions, microemulsions, creamsor gels. They are preferably formulated as solutions, emulsions ormicro-emulsions with a water content of 50 to 90% by weight, based onthe preparation as a whole.

In another preferred embodiment, the preparations may be formulated asfoam aerosols. In this case, they may be formulated both with aliquefied gas as propellent and in the form of so-called pump sprays inwhich the pressure required for spraying is built up by mechanicalpumping. Nitrogen, air, carbon dioxide, propane, butane, isobutane,pentane and dimethyl ether are preferred propellents. Althoughchlorofluorocarbons and chlorinated hydrocarbons are excellentpropellents in regard to the aerosol properties obtained, their use aspropellents in the preparations according to the invention is lesspreferred on account of the well-known ozone problems.

The present invention also relates to the use of the preparationsaccording to the invention for the treatment of the hair or skin.

The preparations used in accordance with the invention may remain bothon the skin and on the hair. Skin creams, skin lotions, sunscreens, hairaftertreatment preparations, hair tonics and hair setting preparationsare examples of preparations used in this way.

However, the preparations according to the invention may also be used insuch a way that the preparation is rinsed off the hair or the skin aftera contact time of a few seconds to a few minutes. Skin cleansingpreparations, hair shampoos, hair rinses and hair tonics are examples ofsuch preparations.

The following Examples are intended to illustrate the invention.

EXAMPLES

I. Colorimetric Studies of Color Retention in Colored Hair

Method

A leveling tress (natural white, 2 g, about 15 cm long; obtainable fromKerling) was tied in the middle. To simulate seriously damaged hair, thelower part of the tress was alternately cold-waved and bleached twice.Cold waving was carried out by treatment with an aqueous solution of acold-wave formulation based on ammonium thioglycolate (30 minutes) andsubsequent fixing with potassium bromate solution (10 minutes).Bleaching was carried out with an aqueous solution of hydrogen peroxideand ammonium peroxydisulfate. To simulate lightly damaged hair, theupper part of the tress was only bleached once. The entire tress wasthen colored with the commercial product Poly Diadem Pflege IntensivTonung (shade: mahogany/coral) (HENKEL). 4 g of coloring mixture wereused per g of hair tress. After a contact time of 30 minutes, the tresswas thoroughly rinsed with warm water (30° C.) and dried with a hairdryer. The colored hair tress was then stored for 2 days at roomtemperature.

After calorimetric determination of the zero value, the towel-dry hairtress was treated for 2 minutes with 0.3 g of test mixture per g of hairin the case of preparations to be rinsed off. The tress was thenthoroughly rinsed with water (30° C.), dried and calorimetricallymeasured. Before the next application, the tress was washed with acommercially available shampoo and dried.

In the case of formulations intended to remain on the hair, 0.3 g oftest mixture per g of hair was applied to the towel-dry hair tress. Thetress was then combed through once and left overnight to dry. On thenext day, the tress was calorimetrically measured. Before the nextapplication, the tress was washed with a commercially available shampooand dried.

The measurement was carried out with a Datacolor Texflash using type D65light (daylight). To this end, the sample to be measured was fixed in aclamp to the spectral photometer and the reflectance values weremeasured over the visible light range of 390 to 700 nm at intervals of10 nm and processed in a computer. The computer program determined thestandard color values under the CIE system (Commission Internationale deL'Eclairage) in accordance with DIN 5033 and converted them into colordifference values according to DIN 6174. The values shown for the totalcolor difference DE (relative to the zero value) are average values from4 measurement points per tress half.

The following three mixtures according to the invention andcorresponding comparison mixtures were investigated:

E1 /C1: hair rinse (is rinsed off)

E2 /C2: tube tonic (remains on the hair)

E3 /C3: foam tonic (remains on the hair)

The compositions of the mixtures investigated and the measurementresults are set out in Table 1.

All quantities are percentages by weight. In the data relating to thetotal color difference DE, N stands for the number of applications ofthe preparation and DD for the degree of damage to the hair.

                  TABLE 1                                                         ______________________________________                                        Component      E1    C1     E2   C2    E3  C3                                 ______________________________________                                        STENOL ® 1618.sup.1                                                                      2.4   1.8    --   --    --  --                                 TEGOAMID ® S 18.sup.2                                                                    1.6   1.6    --   --    --  --                                 CUTINA ® CP.sup.3                                                                        0.8   1.0    --   --    --  --                                 AJIDEW ® N 50.sup.4                                                                      0.5   0.5    --   --    --  --                                 Citric acid    0.7   0.5    --   --    --  --                                 Diisopropyl adipate                                                                          --    --     0.8  0.8   0.8 0.8                                CREMOPHOR ® RH 40.sup.5                                                                  --    --     0.1  0.1   0.1 0.1                                LUVISKOL ® 90.sup.6                                                                      --    --     0.1  0.1   0.1 0.1                                CELQUAT ® 200.sup.7                                                                      --    --     0.5  0.5   0.5 0.5                                SEPIGEL ® 305.sup.8                                                                      --    --     3.0  3.0   1.0 1.0                                DOW CORNING ® 345.sup.9                                                                  --    --     --   --    0.2 0.2                                PLANTAREN ® 1200.sup.10                                                                  --    --     --   --    1.0 1.0                                KUKUI NUT      0.8   --     0.4  --    0.2 --                                 Ethanol        --    --     12.0 12.0  --  --                                 Water          ← ad 100 →                                         DE (n/DD)                                                                     1/Serious      2.3   3.4    1.5  1.8   1.5 2.7                                3/Serious      8.9   9.5    7.3  9.5   7.8 11.0                               1/Slight       0.9   1.5    0.9  1.9   0.5 0.7                                3/Slight       4.2   4.3    4.7  5.1   4.8 5.2                                ______________________________________                                         .sup.1 C.sub.16/18 fatty alcohol (HENKEL)                                     .sup.2 N,Ndimethyl-Nstearoyl-1,3-diaminopropane(CFTA name:                    Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamin)(GOLDSCHMIDT)                                   .sup.3 Ester of saturated longchain fatty alcohols and fatty acids) mainl     palmitic acid cetyl ester (CTFA name: Cetyl Palmitate)(HENKEL)                .sup.4 DL2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid sodium salt (approx. 50% active      substance; CTFA name: Sodium PCA)(AJINOMOTO)                                  .sup.5 Castor Oil hydrogenated + 45 ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG40          Hydrogenated Castor Oil)(BASF)                                                .sup.6 Polyvinyl pyrrolidone (BASF)                                           .sup.7 Hydroxyethyl cellulose/diallyl dimethylammonium chloride (95%          active substance; CTFA name: Polyquaternium4)(DELFT NATIONAL)                 .sup.8 Dodecyl alcohol + 7EO/isoparaffin/polyacrylamide mixture (CTFA         name: Polyacrylamide (and) C13-14Isoparaffin (and) Laureth7)(SEPPIC)          .sup.9 Dimethyl cyclosiloxane pentamer (CTFA name: Cyclomethicone) (DOW       CORNING)                                                                      .sup.10 C.sub.12-16 alkyl glucoside, degree of oligomerization 1.4            (approx. 50% active substance; CTFA name: Lauryl Polyglycosid)(HENKEL)   

What is claimed is:
 1. A water-based foam aerosol composition having apH of 2.5 to 7.5 for the treatment of hair or skin containing cosmeticcomponents consisting essentially of(a) an alkyl polyglycosidecorresponding to general formula (I):

    RO--(Z).sub.x                                              (I)

in which R is an alkyl radical containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms, Z is amono- or oligosaccharide and x is a number of 1.1 to 5, or alkoxylatedhomologs thereof containing 1 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide or propyleneoxide, (b) 0.05% to 5% by weight of a polymer selected from the groupconsisting of a cationic, amphoteric, zwitterionic, anionic and nonionicpolymer, and (c) a vegetable oil selected from kukui nut oil, almondoil, walnut oil, peach kernel oil, avocado oil, tea tree oil, soya oil,sesame oil, sunflower seed oil, tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, ricebran oil, palm kernel oil, mango kernel oil, meadow foam oil, thistleoil, macadamia nut oil, grape seed oil, apricot kernel oil, babassu oil,olive oil, wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, hazel nut oil,safflower oil, jojoba oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil and shea butter. 2.A composition as in claim 1 wherein in formula (I), Z is glucose, R isan alkyl radical containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms and x is a number of1.1 to 1.6.
 3. A composition as in claim 1 wherein said polymer is anonionic polymer.
 4. A composition as in claim 1 wherein said vegetableoil is selected from kukui nut oil, almond oil, peach kernel oil,avocado oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil and mallow oil. 5.A composition as in claim 4 wherein said vegetable oil is kukui nut oilor macadamia nut oil.
 6. A composition as in claim 1 containing 0.5% to20% by weight of said alkyl polyglycoside and 0.1% to 5% by weight ofsaid vegetable oil.
 7. A composition as in claim 1 wherein a propellentgas selected from the group consisting of nitrogen, air, carbon dioxide,propane, butane, isobutane, pentane and dimethyl ether is present insaid foam aerosol.
 8. The process of treating hair or skin comprisingcontacting said hair or skin with a water-based foam aerosol compositionhaving a pH of 2.5 to 7.5 containing cosmetic components consistingessentially of(a) an alkyl polyglycoside corresponding to generalformula (I):

    RO--(Z).sub.x                                              (I)

in which R is an alkyl radical containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms, Z is amono- or oligosaccharide and x is a number of 1.1 to 5, or alkoxylatedhomologs thereof containing 1 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide or propyleneoxide, (b) 0.05% to 5% by weight of a polymer selected from the groupconsisting of a cationic, amphoteric, zwitterionic, anionic and nonionicpolymer, and (c) a vegetable oil selected from kukui nut oil, almondoil, walnut oil, peach kernel oil, avocado oil, tea tree oil, soya oil,sesame oil, sunflower seed oil, tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, ricebran oil, palm kernel oil, mango kernel oil, meadow foam oil, thistleoil, macadamia nut oil, grape seed oil, apricot kernel oil, babassu Oil,olive oil, wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, hazel nut oil,safflower oil, jojoba oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil and shea butter. 9.A process as in claim 8 wherein in formula (I), Z is glucose, R is analkyl radical containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms and x is a number of 1.1to 1.6.
 10. A process as in claim 8 wherein said polymer is a nonionicpolymer.
 11. A process as in claim 8 wherein said vegetable oil isselected from kukui nut oil, almond oil, peach kernel oil, avocado oil,evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil and mallow oil.
 12. A process asin claim 11 wherein said vegetable oil is kukui nut oil or macadamia nutoil.
 13. A process as in claim 8 wherein said composition contains 0.5%to 20% by weight of said alkyl polyglycoside and 0.1% to 5% by weight ofsaid vegetable oil.
 14. A process as in claim 8 wherein a propellent gasselected from the group consisting of nitrogen, air, carbon dioxide,propane, butane, isobutane, pentane and dimethyl ether is present insaid foam aerosol.
 15. A process as in claim 8 including rinsing saidcomposition off the hair or skin after a contact time of a few secondsto a few minutes.